A house, a home - a stay at the Kukutana farmhouse

Culture Family Farmhouse Jun 14. 2023

The house at Kukutana is bathed in a rich, Andalusian history, offering warmth, comfort and luxury in typical Southern Spanish style.

The Kukutana Team

Built in 1919, Kukutana was sold in the 1980s by Carlos Melgarejo to his great friend, ‘Peru’ Llorente (current owner-host Pedro’s great grandfather) – a friendship captured in a fading photograph of the two men standing in front of the house, two friendly custodians of this wonderful home. After a full refurbishment in 2020, the Llorente family opened Kukutana’s doors to share their heritage, authentic local culture and rural lifestyle with guests.

Kukutana’s façade is typical of Andalucía. Thick white stone walls keep the house cool, with stripes of burgundy red paint (traditionally coloured by cow’s blood) wrapping around the building. Traditional wooden shutters frame the windows, from which lush lawns and towering pine trees can be seen, offering shade and respite during the hot summer months. Herb-filled flowerpots adorn the windowsills and flank the hand-carved doorways, their delicate aroma floating gently on the warm breeze.

The surrounding Andalusian countryside – former hunting grounds of Spanish royalty – is best explored on horseback or horse-drawn carriage rides. An iron gateway leads to a cobbled-stone inner-courtyard, where leather-scented stables house Anglo-Arab horses and two beautiful traditional carriages. These trips, winding along sandy tracks through the pine forests and grasslands of Donana National Park, typically involve a lavish woodland picnic, fuelled by a travelling bar service offering G&T’s on ice.

Back at the house guests gather to relax on comfy wicker armchairs on a shaded terrace overlooking the garden. Here, leisurely brunches – homemade tortillas and freshly-baked croissants stuffed with local jamon and cheese – are served from a beautiful wooden table, often decorated with flowers or pine fronds from the garden. The terrace bar is always well-stocked; crisp, refreshing, chilled local manzanilla from nearby Sanlúcar de Barrameda tends to be the favoured choice. As sunlight dances on the nearby pool, guests recline on soft, white day-beds under the shade of a thatched parasol, reading, stealing a siesta or watching the chickens and horses grazing to the sound of birdsong.

Beyond the garden lies an old bull ring – a ‘show ring’ rather than a ‘fighting ring’ – where the old ‘jefe’ farm manager would inspect his cattle from the balcony; a perfect spot for sundowners with a view. Lourdes Llorente – hostess and chef – loves to come to this peaceful place to think, pray and disconnect.

Inside the house, a burst of flowers fills the hallway and a quaint collection of straw hats and woollen ponchos hangs by the entrance, ready to be borrowed for sunny picnics or cool evenings. Throughout the house, traditional elegance like this is blended with modern touches to ensure an authentic, comfortable stay. Original features – the white walls, wooden banisters and hand-carved doorways – have been lovingly maintained, and owner Pedro has a workshop for restoring the antique furniture that adorns every room, along with bronze sculptures of dogs and horses, intricate tapestries and unique paintings.

To the left of the hallway lies the candlelit dining room – newly and masterfully decorated each evening. Lourdes and Isabel – Kukutana housekeeper for many years – dresses the table with peonies, bougainvillea, pomegranates or pampas grasses from the garden to suit the stunning home-cooked feasts created using family recipes and seasonal garden-grown ingredients. Intricate details catch the eye; each visitor is treated to a favour in the form of a wooden napkin-ring carved with Kukutana’s cattle brand and personalised with each guest’s initials.

After dinner, guests retire to the sitting room – a calm, homely space to sink in to deep sofas and armchairs encircling the fireplace and coffee table. Tall lamps illuminate corners to steal away to and browse the collection of books about the area’s history. A card table with a family-drawn painting of the region plays host to games of backgammon, rummy and chess. The piano is topped with a gallery of family photographs, including one of the Pope’s visit to the nearby Cathedral in El Rocio. Some of the region’s finest flamenco dancers have also graced this room, invited to exclusive performances for Kukutana guests below a dazzling painting of traditional toreador jackets – the outfits of another powerful local tradition.

At the end of the evening, after a rich, hearty meal, digestifs and coffee, the winding staircase leads to six en-suite bedrooms on the first floor with views over the garden and the inner courtyard and stables. The rooms feature stone-tiled floors softened by ornate rugs, simple washed-stone walls, white luxury linens, soft quilts for cooler nights, warm lampshades for bedtime reading, fluffy white dressing gowns, candles and lovely Spanish toiletries by Alvarez Gomez.

Each is styled individually with hand-chosen restored furniture and decorations: beautiful mirrors, patterned headboards, a carved wooden bedframe, paintings of Seville or Andalusian countryside, a hand-painted model sailboat, antique writing desk, or icon of Nuestra Virgen la Senora del Rocio. Some rooms have deep bathtubs for an evening soak; others have luxurious walk-in rain-showers. Turn down service is another of the many little treats at Kukutana to end the day: chocolates are placed by your bed, and perhaps a ‘message in a bottle’ detailing the history of the region…

Kukutana’s name, meaning ‘meeting place’ or ‘el encuentro’, was inspired by a sculpture by Maria Llorente, a member of the family. Positioned at the heart of the home, it depicts two people, two souls in an embrace, symbolising the very essence of this magical place – love and friendship. The house is just another character to get to know during your stay. The family’s history and memories live in every room, in every piece of furniture, ornament or painting, collected by generations through the ages.

After all, Kukutana is a home from home, inviting guests to write their own chapter in its story.

I’m struggling to put into words everything that we have experienced these past days, from the very first moment it has all been exceptional. The team and the hosts are marvellous, the experiences unforgettable - we will cherish these days forever.

Guest, Madrid

A unique experience surrounded by friends and hosted by this wonderful family who have poured their dreams and love into this project. The most memorable G&T in history! We will be back soon.

V.U. Madrid

The magic of southern Spain and the warmth with which we have been received have made these days unforgettable. What an incredible project you have created!

A.L. Germany

Thank you for the most magical few days in this piece of Paradise! It was the most memorable time and holiday that we have ever had. The food was delicious, the horses were beautiful and cannot believe that we saw a Lynx! We cannot thank you enough for all you have done. Hope to see you again soon and best luck for the creation and adventures that you plan.