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Nature

Introducing Doñana National Park – Southern Europe’s best kept secret

Southern Spain is well-known for its white-sand beaches, rugged mountains and Moorish architecture. Tourists flock to Seville to watch flamenco dancing and wander the streets of this old city – one so beautiful that Greek legend says it was founded by Hercules himself. But who has heard of Doñana? Just one hour south of Seville, the Doñana National Park is Europe’s biggest best kept secret. Spanning an impressive 540 square kilometres, of which 135 square kilometres is protected, the park is unrivalled in Europe for its biodiversity and huge range of wildlife. Some say there are similarities with Parc Naturel Régional de Camargue in France – and so it was only natural for the two parks to become twinned. The unique nature of the Doñana National Park comes down to its rich variety of ecosystems. From marshes to flood plains, streams and the delta where the Guadalquivir River reaches the Atlantic Ocean, the environment is a haven for migratory birds and endangered species such as the Spanish imperial eagle and the Iberian lynx. Among the experiences available to guests at Kukutana, our historic farmhouse located in the Doñana National Park, are 4×4 tours around the park. One of the highlights is seeing the moving sand dunes of Las Marismas (the wetlands). These mobile dunes, also known as transdunes, are formed by the prevailing winds coming in from the Atlantic Ocean and are almost non-existent elsewhere in the Iberian Peninsula. The dunes slowly move across the landscape, gradually enveloping and smothering the vegetation, which mainly takes the form of a pine forest. Each time you visit the dunes, the landscape will have changed according to the way the wind blows. The pine trees are dominant, but you can also find the remains of the ancient cork-oak forests. Some have marks on the outer bark where the trunk has been carefully stripped by hand. As for wildlife, the delta provides a lifeline for millions of European and African migratory birds, and birdwatchers flock to the area to see the marbled teal, red-knobbed coot, glossy ibis, red-crested pochard, egrets, herons and the greater flamingo. The elusive Iberian lynx is a much-desired sighting by guests who stay at Kukutana, indeed our guides enjoy frequent sightings in the woodland by the farmhouse. The area is also home to fallow deer, Spanish red deer, wild boars, European badgers and Egyptian mongooses. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage

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Sport

In the saddle – Kukutana and Andalusia’s horse heritage

Horses are central to Spain’s – and Andalusia’s – cultural identity and are woven into the country’s history and rural life Wild horses were depicted millennia ago in cave paintings, and humankind has had a bond with horses stretching back as far as we can see. Nowadays, Andalusian culture is awash with equestrian traditions; carriage rides through the centre of Seville are a testament to a way of life that in some ways hasn’t changed in centuries. Closer to home, Kukutana is an equestrian’s dream, with rides through the towering pine forests, tracks, marshlands and beaches of Donana National Park and the surrounding area some of our very favourite and most popular excursions. What’s more, a visit to El Rocio, the whitewashed Andalusian town that is the destination of the Romeria de El Rocio, one of Spain’s largest pilgrimages, illustrates just how strong a hold horses have on local culture; streets are unpaved – all the better for riding in to town – whilst bars still have hitching posts and even raised tables so thirsty riders don’t have to dismount to enjoy their cerveza or sherry. Indeed, Andalusia even has its own breed, the Andalusian horse or Spanish Thoroughbred, a breed renowned for its elegance, strength and reliability. The Conquistadors and the Iberian Horse Andalusia’s relationship with its horses peaked, perhaps, during the time of the Spanish conquest, when hardy soldiers and explorers sailed across the ocean to seek fame and fortune in the New World. Many voyages departed from Andalusia; indeed Christopher Colombus’ voyage departed from Sanlucar De Barrameda, marking the Southern edge of the Donana National Park. Iberian horses – different to the Andalusian breeds we know today – were introduced to the Americas by Columbus and subsequent expeditions included these strong, hardy and sure-footed creatures. Many of the conquistadors had grown up on ranches and farms and ridden horses all their lives; experience that would prove useful for men and horses alike during gruelling, often violent, expeditions in Latin America. The noble horses survived the tough four month voyage across the Atlantic, withstanding cramped conditions and restricted diets. Upon arrival, the horses were required to swim to land before tackling rugged terrain, jungles and swamps. These brave and resilient horses did more than just carry heavy loads. The tribes of the New World were in awe of them and the Conquistadors took full advantage, using their horses

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Culture

Heard of the ‘white city’ of El Rocío, Andalusia?

Riding into the white town of El Rocío is the closest you can get to life in the Wild West, whilst the town plays host to one of Spain’s largest pilgrimages The intriguing village of El Rocío is located in the marshlands of the Guadalquivir River delta on the edge of UNESCO World Heritage site Doñana National Park. One of the renowned Andalusian white villages, or pueblos blancos, that scatter the region, El Rocío is steeped in culture and tradition, and feels very much like a scene out of a Wild West movie. The primary mode of transport is horseback, with horse-drawn carriages a frequent sight in the town and the woodland trails surrounding it. Streets are wide and sandy and lined with veranda-clad houses. Wooden railings and hitching posts outside restaurants enable riders to tie up their steeds in order to enjoy a bite of lunch, while outdoor bars are often raised, so thirsty locals can enjoy a drink without even dismounting. Romería de El Rocío Andalusia is famed for its pilgrimages or Romerías – so named as pilgrims traditionally walked to Rome and therefore become known as Romeros. These pilgrimages, typically now leading to popular shrines in the region, have evolved over time into lengthy, lavish fiestas. One of the most spectacular Romerías in the region is devoted to the Virgen del Rocío. Every year, in May during the festival of Pentecost, around a million people from across Spain descend on El Rocío. isitors flock to The Hermitage of El Rocío, the town’s striking cathedral, within which lies an ornate gold altar housing the venerated statue of Our Lady of El Rocío. The pilgrims arrive for this vibrant, colourful festival on horseback and in brightly adorned wagons that form a miles-long trail that snakes in to the town and transforms it into a riot of colour and noise. Women parade the streets in pretty flamenco dresses, while men appear in the traditional dress of grey trousers, short riding jackets and wide-brimmed hats, all to the backdrop of lively Spanish rhythms. It’s a remarkable spectacle and not to be missed; impromptu fiestas, open-air masses and horse races in the streets keep pilgrims and visitors alike entertained night and day. In addition to the cathedral, the attractive church of Nuestra Señora del Rocío is worth a visit for its bright white brickwork and interesting architectural features, while El Rocío is

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Press

Kukutana in the press

House & Garden “The historic farmhouse Kukutana is a stellar launchpad for exploring the park, not to mention a charming refuge to behold authentic Andalusian

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Kukutana Family

The inspiration and vision behind Kukutana

Kukutana host Peri explains the inspiration behind this unique, exclusive, Andalusian cortijo, and his family’s vision for the future The Llorente family’s dream to preserve their traditional Andalusian farmhouse – known as a cortijo in this part of Spain – and share their region’s culture, wonderful hospitality and beautiful scenery, inspired them to open Kukutana up to guests A family-run private house in rural Andalusia, Kukutana is a place for those in search of something truly authentic, with countless privately-guided, bespoke experiences. We sit down with Peri, the fourth generation of Llorente to oversee Kukutana, to understand the vision behind the project and how it came to be. Peri Llorente’s great-grandfather bought the farm in 1987, just two years before Peri was born. Peri reminisces over a childhood that was defined by freedom – one of the great fortunes of a rural upbringing. “Summers were spent with a troop of cousins cooking up wild adventures: racing each other on horseback down sandy paths, being taught to hunt by our grandparents in the forests, carriage rides and picnics, exploring the vast Doñana National Park, and playing with our many dogs – coaxing them to chase cans that we dragged behind our bicycles. From first communions to golden wedding anniversaries, Kukutana was always the chosen setting for a celebration, and any such gathering was always attended by copious family and friends, with whom we all loved to share the joys of the homestead”. The Llorente’s hospitality has become the stuff of Andalusian legend; every guest is made to feel instantly at home, welcomed into the family-fold. “What we have been trying to do – and I think are achieving quite well – is recreating for our guests the same Kukutana existence that our family has lived and loved since I was a child”, Peri explains. “It also comes down to a very good home-cooked meal, beautifully served in a comfortable house – that’s what Kukutana really means for us. Above all, it is a place to meet and connect with people, or even animals – so many people fall in love with the horse they’ve ridden here! – and to encounter nature.” This sentiment provides the guiding light for Kukutana, named from the Swahili word meaning ‘meeting place’. It was travelling, after all, that helped Peri form a vision for Kukutana (and explains the name). He recalls experiences of personalised hosting and

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The ‘Ana’ in Kukutana – an interview with the manager

Ana Soto, Kukutana manager and lifelong family friend of the Llorentes, tells us how she fell under the Kukutana spell and of her pivotal role in the day to day running of this historic Andalusian farmhouse Born and bred in Seville, Ana met the Llorente family many years ago when she was at primary school with Blanca, Kukutana host Pedro’s sister. Forming a long-lasting bond with the family, Ana gradually became absorbed in to the clan From that moment on, Ana was always destined to be part of the Kukutana story. As the Kukutana project grew from a family dream to a stunning reality, Ana quickly became a crucial member of the team. Now, she spares a few minutes in her busy schedule to talk about how she came to be involved in such a unique family-run enterprise, her many and varied responsibilities, and what she imagines the future holds for Kukutana… From the beginning Long before Kukutana opened its doors to guests looking for an authentic, personalised Andalusia experience, it was a spacious, comfortable home for the Llorentes, packed every weekend with friends and family looking to enjoy the Southern Spanish climate in the beautiful surroundings bordering Doñana National Park. After one such weekend, Ana found herself in Pedro’s (known affectionately as Perico to friends and family) office, discussing how best to share Kukutana’s wonderful atmosphere with visitors and guests. Ana had always loved Kukutana and its unique location, so close to the soaring pine forests, sand dunes, wetlands and coastline of Doñana. The historic Andalusian farmhouse was calling to Ana, who felt passionately that guests would lap up the heady mix of nature, traditions and gastronomy the house and grounds could offer. And so it was that Ana became a fully signed up member of the team and a huge part of Kukutana’s transformation from a family home to a high end, fully serviced, property offering exceptional excursions and a fully tailored itinerary for small groups of close friends and family. The Ana in Kukutana “On paper I am the manager, but I’m very lucky to be part of the team we have, where all of us give our best to keep everything running” Ana explains over a glass of fresh orange juice, a favourite in Seville where oranges grow on every street. Kukutana is just an hour’s drive from this elegant and enticing city, making it an

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